Hydros Adventures

by Matthew J. Nelson

If you were to fall asleep and wake up in Havasu Canyon, you probably wouldn’t believe that you were awake. Hundred-foot waterfalls crash over chocolate-colored cliffs into pools of liquid turquoise, surrounded by giant cottonwood trees swaying in the afternoon breeze. Swirling clouds of mist fill the air, and the delightful calls of canyon wrens echo off the red canyon walls. Desert bighorn sheep walk among the cliffs, and Havasupai people carry on conversations in their native language. You would have to be a truly lucid dreamer to imagine something this good. But paradise is a reality, and is hidden within a dry and dusty canyon at the western end of Grand Canyon. Just past the village of Supai (only accessible by foot, horse or helicopter) you’ll discover the wonders of Havasu Canyon – one of the most beautiful places on Earth.

The adventure begins at the end of Indian Highway 18, a lonely stretch of road that bisects the Hualapai Reservation northwest of Flagstaff (see “Finding Your Way” for directions). Hiking into any portion of Grand Canyon is always an arduous undertaking, but the trek into Havasu Canyon is about as easy as it gets. The trail follows wide switchbacks through the sandstone cliffs, and you lose a thousand feet of elevation within the first 1.5 miles. After that, the trail continues along a relatively flat course for the next 6.5 miles. As you walk along, stay alert for horse and mule trains carrying supplies from Hualapai Hilltop to the village of Supai. Most of the time the horses are not tethered together (they know the route very well) and need as much room as you can give them. When you hear the sound of approaching hooves, move quickly to the uphill side of the trail. They are usually followed by a Havasupai man on horseback.

The first canyon you enter is Hualapai Canyon, a dry drainage that will eventually lead you to Havasu Canyon. Just before the trail flattens and follows the Hualapai streambed, look north toward the canyonlands in the distance. A prominent mountain rises from deep within the canyon. This is Mount Sinyella, a sacred peak to the Havasupai, and although you will be much closer to it when you visit the waterfalls hidden within the canyon below, this is the only time you’ll see it. It is believed that if anyone should attempt to climb Mount Sinyella that a great flood will come and wash them away. Since floods have frequently swept through these canyons it’s best to heed the warnings, and more importantly, to respect the traditional beliefs of the people who have lived here for more than 800 years.

Less than half a mile from the time you enter the flat streambed, look to the cliffs on the west side of the canyon. Hidden under a sandstone overhang is a massive pictograph of a bighorn sheep. There are other examples of indigenous rock art that can be found throughout these canyons, and if you look carefully within alcoves and under the cliffs you might find ochre paintings from ancient artists.

The miles pass quickly under your boots, and approximately five miles down from the Hualapai Hilltop you’ll enter a narrow section of the canyon where a giant fin-like rock rises from the arroyo. There are alcoves here that remain cool throughout the day, and it’s an excellent spot to stop for lunch. At mile six you’ll enter intersect Havasu Canyon. Stay left and follow the signs toward Supai. Listen closely, and you’ll hear the unmistakable sound of water. Less than a mile later you cross a bridge (stay right) and catch your first glimpse of the magical blue-green water. If you’re hiking during the heat of the day, hang out under the bridge and cool your feet in the water. It’s pure bliss.

At mile eight you enter the village of Supai, home to about 450 Havasupai people, or Havsuw ‘Baaja, as they call themselves. The Havasupai are known for being the only permanent, continuous inhabitants of the Grand Canyon. Their name translates to “people of the blue-green water.” Historically, the Havasupai were nomads who farmed alongside perennial streams in the summer, and hunted and gathered up on the plateau in the winter. In the late 1800s, cowboys and miners came to Havasu Canyon and began staking claims. Tensions escalated until 1866, when a three-year war broke out between the Pai people and the US Army. In 1880, President Hayes decreed the Havasupai to 38,000 acres along Havasu Creek, which was repealed to 500 acres in 1882. Grand Canyon National Park was established in 1919, and the tribe was restricted to a reservation at the southwest corner of the park. After strenuous legal battles commencing in the early 1970s, 185,000 acres have been returned to them. The Havasupai boast one hundred percent fluency in the Supai language, and are one of the few tribes inhabiting their traditional homeland. They are warm and friendly people, and your visit to their home will be enriched by the time you spend with them. It’s not too difficult to strike up conversations with people you meet along the main road through town, and there are always old-timers hanging out in front of the post office. You’ll surprise them if you greet them in Supai by saying “Kum’yuu.”

Check in at the Tourist Office, a small building on the west side of the road, where you’ll get your permit and pay your entry fees. You’ll also be given a nice map of the area and asked to agree to a few simple rules while spending time in Havasu Canyon. Please read the entire General Information Guide before leaving the Tourist Office, and share the information with the others in your group.

Walk though the village of Supai, then follow signs toward the campground. One and a half miles down the road you’ll hear the sound of Navajo Falls to the west. This is the first set of impressive cascades along your journey and is worth exploring before you visit the campground. There is no sign to direct you there, but once you can start to see the cascades through the trees, follow a footpath down toward the base of the waterfall. You’ll have to cross over Havasu Creek, either on logs or through the water itself, to get to the base of Navajo Falls. Once you’re standing at the base of the falls, you’ll discover why this is one of my favorite places in the world.

Navajo Falls may not be as tall as the other cascades in Havasu Canyon, but its beauty lies in the amazing travertine formations above and below the falls. Each droplet of water coursing through Havasu Creek is filled with minerals from the limestone it has dissolved, mainly calcium carbonate and bicarbonate, known as travertine. These minerals become encrusted onto organic material, such as leaves and trees, and form dams at the base of the waterfalls which then form pools perfect for swimming. They are similar to speleothems (cave formations, such as stalactites and stalagmites) but grow thousands of times faster than you would find in a cave environment. Navajo Falls has a particularly beautiful pool where the water crashes down, and incredible formations can be found around the base of the waterfall. Some of best examples of travertine pools can be found at the top of Navajo Falls, and the best way to get there is to scramble up a path around the southeast side of the falls. Once on top you’ll find dozens of pools shimmering in the dappled shade of massive hackberry and cottonwood trees. There are also hidden grottos where mosses, ferns and other plants flourish within perennially moist, hanging gardens.

After you have spent some time enjoying Navajo Falls, head back to the trail and continue walking down canyon toward the campground. Just past the Havasupai Cemetery, the trail plummets and a distinct sound fills the air – it’s the powerful voice of Havasu Falls. You’ll get your first view of it about halfway down the hill, and there is a nice flat rock where you can get an amazing photograph of the falls. Havasu Falls is one of the most photographed waterfalls on Earth, and many of the photos are taken from this very spot. Although you may have seen its image a thousand times, nothing compares to standing at the base of the shimmering cascade, feeling the mist caress your face, listening to the thunderous roar of water, and swimming through the blue-green pools.

It’s easy to spend hours, even days, in the vicinity of Havasu Falls. But once wanderlust sets in, head farther down canyon where other aqueous gems await. The campground is perfectly set by the water’s edge, and you’ll find myriad spots to pitch a tent or camp under the stars. Massive trees provide shade throughout most of the day, and if you’re looking for a little solitude consider wading through the water to camp on the east side of the creek next to the redwall limestone cliffs. Composting toilets are located on the southern end of the campground, and during times of high visitation there are port-o-potties as well. Fern Spring provides water for campers, and is available behind a small stone structure on the western side of the campground.

Follow the trail downstream and just as the campground ends you’ll hear another ominous roar coming around the corner. This is Mooney Falls, and plummets 210 feet into the turbulent crystalline pool below. You won’t get your first view of Mooney Falls until you snake your way through the cliffs that surround the falls. After walking down a few hand-carved steps, turn right onto a flat area that will give you a spectacular view of this natural wonder. It will take your breath away.

Mooney Falls is named for D.W. “James” Mooney, a miner who fell to his death in 1882 while attempting to climb the falls. When his companions returned at a later time to recover his body, it had become completely encased in travertine. It is likely that his corpse is still buried deep within the travertine dams you see at the base of the falls.

Getting to the bottom of Mooney Falls is less dangerous than it used to be, but it’s still extremely challenging and not recommended for those with aversions to heights, exposure, or who doubt their ability to scramble on wet rocks. If you decide to give it a try, take great care when going up and down the passageway. Enter the travertine massif through a cave just big enough to walk through and follow the narrow pathway through the cliffs that look like melting milk chocolate. Metal rods, chains and ladders provide a small measure of safety as you make your way down the nearly vertical rock face. It’s best to turn and face the rock, and climb down as if you were climbing down a ladder. The closer you get to the base of the waterfall, the rocks become slippery from mist. If at any point you look down and don’t feel confident to continue, turn around and go back up. The view from the top of the falls is outstanding, and a fall from anywhere on this route will result in serious injury or worse.

Beaver Falls is the seldom-visited waterfall three miles farther down Havasu Canyon, and is only accessible to those able to climb down Mooney Falls. It takes some good route-finding skills to get there, and an adventurous spirit to cross the creek several times, climb makeshift wooden ladders and scramble up and down cliffs to reach the waterfalls. But the trail along the way is enchanting, winding through a riparian wilderness where fields of wild grape cover the canyon bottom. And if you’re up for a big day hike from the campground, five miles beyond Beaver Falls is the mighty Colorado River – the source of all this beauty.

Havasu Canyon is a place that everyone should visit in their lifetime. And not just once, as the mineral-rich water and occasional floods are constantly changing the appearance of the waterfalls, just as the changing seasons add new character to this majestic canyon. There is an overwhelming sense of serenity that washes over your spirit the moment your skin touches the cool, blue-green water. It’s an experience you may revisit in your dreams over and over again.

When To Go

Havasu Falls is an ideal destination any time of year, and depending on what kind of experience you’re looking for will determine when you go. Spring and summer are the most popular times to visit, and for good reason. The canyon heats up, making a dip in the water feel so refreshing. Wildflowers can be found in abundance, and all of the canyon’s foliage comes to life, covering the red earth with lush blankets of green. Securing a reservation for spring and summer is difficult, and should be done one year in advance. If you’re there in August you might get to experience the biggest party of the year – the annual Peach Festival. Supai really comes to life around this time, and the rodeo and cultural events are something you’ll never forget. Autumn quiets down considerably, and as long as you avoid the canyon during holidays you’re likely to find some solitude. Once snow falls on the plateau, visitation drops off almost entirely. If you’re looking for serenity and solitude, plan your visit for winter. I have been in Havasu Canyon as late as the end of February and discovered only four other visitors there. The only drawbacks to winter visits are that the massive cottonwoods have not yet put on their springtime leaves, and the ambient temperature makes swimming in the turquoise pools quite invigorating.

Supai Services

Tourism is the main source of income for the Havasupai Reservation, and there are few services available to visitors. While I recommend camping at the public campground two miles south of the village of Supai, there is a lodge in the village for those who don’t want to camp. The rooms are simple, clean, and not too expensive. The village itself has a tiny general store (all supplies are brought in by horse or helicopter), a post office, a school, two churches and a café. If carrying down all of your supplies is too much work, it’s easy to get a Supai horse to do it for you. Helicopter rides in and out of the village are also available for those not inclined toward trekking. Information on all of the Supai services is available on the tribe’s website: www.havasupaitribe.com.

Finding Your Way

From Tucson, drive west on I-10 to Phoenix, then take I-17 to Flagstaff. From there, head west on I-40 for 85 miles and exit at Seligman. This is the last place you’ll find services along the way, so fill your tank up here. From Seligman, follow Historic Route 66 across the Hualapai Reservation toward Peach Springs. Ten miles before Peach Springs, turn right and head north on Indian Highway 18 toward Supai. After 68 miles the road will end at the Hualapai Hilltop. Park anywhere in the main visitor parking lot, or if it’s full, park along the road. The trailhead is at the northern end of the parking lot, and although there are no signs indicating where to begin it’s easy to locate the wide dirt path carving down toward the canyon bottom. Lace up your boots and begin your trek into one of the most spectacular places in the world.

Originally published in the