Escalante Route: Tanner Trail to New Hance Trail
Among the commonly hikes sections below the South Rim, the Escalante route has a reputation for requiring a bit extra from Grand Canyon hikers. Several passages encountered along the way require exposed hand and toe climbing, and a feel for the route ahead will save time at the difficult spots. The Colorado River is usually the only reliable source of water, so fool-proof methods of turbid water purification are a real necessity. On the other hand, you are presented with a delightful variety of Canyon environments, ranging from the wide open spaces of Furnace Flats to the slot-like confines of lower 75 mile Creek. Hance Rapid at the mouth of Red Canyon represents the premier stretch of whitewater in the upper reaches of the Grand Canyon. Changing geology, as the sedimentary Supergroup gives way to the ancient Vishnu Complex, combine with remarkable views from a variety of elevations to produce a Grand Canyon experience of the first order.
Vital Statistics
Mileage
Tanner Beach to Cardenas Creek: 3 miles (4.8 km)
Cardenas Creek to 75 Mile Creek: 7 miles (11.2 km)
75 Mile Creek to Hance Rapid: 2 miles (3.2 km)
Maps
Desert View, Cape Royal and Grand View Point 7.5 USGS Quads
Elevation Change
Tanner Beach: 2700’ (823 m)
Escalante Divide: 4000’ (1220 m)
Hance Rapid: 2600’ (793 m)
Trailhead Access
Access is via the Tanner Trail on the east. The New Hance Trail or the Tonto Trail provides access on the west. Please see these route descriptions for more information on these trails.
Trail Description
The route can be walked in either direction, but going with the flow of the land is appealing so this passage will be described from of perspective of a downcanyon hiker. Follow the Tanner Trail to the shoreline. Rocks placed at the trail margin make it easy to see the way across Tanner Beach and up onto the bench above the River that forms the route downstream towards Cardenas Creek. A well-trodden trail works its way along the foot of the Super group slopes above the shoreline. Shallow gullies must be crossed at intervals but generally speaking the route from Tanner to Cardenas is straightforward.
Cardenas Creek is almost always dry, but there is easy access to the Colorado River via the bed of the drainage. This is the last reliable water source until one reaches the River at the mouth of Escalante Creek. The trail crosses Cardenas Creek about two hundred yards above the shoreline. Shallow gullies must be crossed at intervals but generally speaking the route from Tanner to Cardenas is straightforward.
The route crosses the unnamed drainage and traverses west toward the crest of the ridge north of Escalante. Caution is indicated throughout this area, as there are many places where you will want to avoid a misstep at all costs. Some sections offer a walking surface about a boot-sole wide while traversing slopes that fall steeply away for hundreds of feet. Take your time and walk with care. The trail seems to traverse west forever, finally going to the top of the ridge just short of the west end. A fine view in all directions is the reward for all the side hill walking.
The trail crosses the ridge and descends rapidly to the bed of Escalante Creek. A barrier fall in the main arm prevents direct access to the River, so the route crosses to the south side of the wash and around into the short arm of Escalante. Well-developed route finding skills will help here. The canyon bottom forms the route for a short distance but soon the trail traverses west to pass a high pour off, crosses a bit of talus and descends to the creek bed below the fall. Both arms of Escalante Creek are normally dry, but once established below the fall it’s an easy walk to the shoreline.
The trail climbs away from the River below the moth of Escalante Creek and follows a rising ramp of Shinumo Quartzite downcanyon. Walk the top of this formation around into 75 Mile Cree. The immediate objective is the mouth of 75 Mile but there are a couple of ways to get there. A few minutes after making the turn into 75 Mile, be alert for cairns that mark the top of a steep gully that allows passage through the quartzite to the drainage bottom a few minutes walk above the mouth. On first inspection from above the descent appears a bit intimidating, but it’s not as hard as it looks, and if one has a short rope (40 ft or so), to lower the packs it’s fairly routine for an experienced walker accustomed to easy climbing in exposed locations. The holds are big and, for the most part, solid, but care is required as one would certainly want to avoid a fall here. A less thrilling (and probably safer) option is to walk the top of the Shinumo all the way to the bed of 75 Mile and continue down the drainage bottom to the River. A couple of minor obstacles present themselves but the solutions are obvious. The Shinumo Quartzite section of 75 Mile is a real treat – deep and narrow. Watch for some neat slickensides near the River, the results of ancient faulting. Nevills Rapid provides a backdrop for several nice camping spots. The area is equally popular among river runners so you may encounter other groups. 75 Mile Creek is normally dry in its lower reaches, but there is access to the River at various points throughout the stretch from Escalante to Papago Creeks. Note: Change occurs easily and quickly in 75 Mile Creek The catchment area is comparatively large and the drainage extremely confined in the lower reaches so the effects of even minor floods can be significant. These factors make an accurate prediction of prevailing conditions at the time of your visit impossible, so take these observations as nothing more than a general guide. Grand Canyon hikers (as always) have to assess the situation for themselves and (hopefully) base their actions on good judgment acquired through experience.
Trails along the beach form the route downriver towards Papago Creek. Eventually sand gives say to rock and a series of ledges require a bit of attention to avoid being rimmed up. In general, stay as close to the River as is conveniently possible. The trail goes up and over a small outcrop of sandstone before dropping back to river lever at the mouth of Papago
A cliff emerges from deep water below the mouth of Papago Creek, creating a need for other options. Exiting Papago on the west requires hand and toe climbing and, once again, a short rope to better facilitate pack handling will prove a worthwhile accessory, especially for a solo walker. Start up immediately west of the mouth of the drainage. The holds a re big and secure, but as one gains height the perception of exposure is hard to avoid. The route leads up from ledge to ledge so it’s never more than a move or two between resting places if you have chosen the line of least resistance. The climbing is easy, but no mistakes are allowed. About 35 feet up the angle relents and one can scramble up the talus toward minor cliff bands above. There are several ways to surmount these little crags, all with obvious trails giving access. Climb the slopes to a (more or less) horizontal trail about 300 vertical feet above the river.
The trail traverses less than 100 yards downcanyon before coming to the top of a talus-filled tunnel that allows passage back to the shoreline. This gully seems dangerous – steep, with lots of big boulders in precarious balance. Large groups are more at risk because more people moving around means increased chances of dislodged rocks. Watch yourself closely here. The immediate shoreline forms the most efficient route between the bottom of this treacherous little gully and the mouth of Red canyon. The walk downstream through riparian vegetation is a real pleasure. The River slows quietly through the large pool above Hance Rapid, and beaver or waterfowl are occasionally encountered. A downcanyon walker arriving at Hance Rapid could continue west via the Tonto Trail toward mineral Canyon on the New Hance Trail.
Water Sources
The Colorado River represents the only reliable water. Hikers can access the shoreline many places between Tanner Beach and Cardenas Creek, the mouths of Escalante and 75 Mile Creeks, several spots between 75 Mile and Papago Creeks, and near Hance Rapid. The Colorado River is often silt-laden and difficult to purify.
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